E-vine
July 2011
Contents: Springtime in France, Star drinking.
Quotes
“There are three kinds of guests: 1. Those one is fond of. 2. Those with whom one is obliged to mix. 3. Those whom one detests.” Edouard de Pomiane.
“I do like champagne –but only if it’s got a good bead and you can dance to it.” Martin Field.
Sparkling Burgundy
Early June, it’s springtime in France and we’re on the fast train to Dijon, capital of Burgundy. After Dijon, we’ll head towards Avignon, Aix en Provence and Marseille.
No rental cars or rural retreats this trip. It’s all train and bus from Paris to Marseille, staying at pre-booked, self-catering apartments in the heart of each town.
Les Halles shopping
On our first look around Dijon we take in the large covered Les Halles Market, built by Gustav Eiffel – he of Tower fame.
Les Halles features a profusion of fresh produce. Multitudinous piles of drool-worthy AOC cheese. Thumb-thick white asparagus stalks tinged with purple. Plump and glistening new season cherries. Provence–grown tomatoes bigger than your fist. Large purple heads of garlic. Piles of chanterelles, field mushrooms and morels. Bouquets of tiny red and white radishes nestling in beds of straw.
From one of the stalls we buy a loaf of dark, artisan-made bread. Al dente crustique I call it. So al dente that Lucy breaks a tooth on the crust. Many euros later at the dentist...
The produce and wines seem quite cheap by Australian standards; it can’t all be down to the strong dollar.
Dijon Mustard
Not least of all, Dijon is famous for its mustard, and mustard is sold everywhere you look. Unlike Australia, where most retailers stock wholegrain Dijon mustard that is mild, the mustards in Dijon are smooth and hot, not dissimilar to hot English mustard.
After sampling quite a few, we buy a Reine de Dijon mustard blended with candied lemon zest and black currant pepper. Smooth and spicy at first, it gradually sneaks up on you with a wasabi-like, nose tickling, eye-watering kick.
Sightseeing
One pleasant morning we spend visiting the Dijon Musee de Vie Bourgignone. Here, we wander round three floors of exhibits based on Burgundian culture, wine and food. Their re-created arcade of 19th century shops is fascinating.
Walking back to the apartment we chance upon an unexpected musical interlude in the Jardin de Berbisey, where an accomplished player of the French lute rehearses stately 17th century French court music.
Drinks
Dijon is the home of kir, the classic cassis and white wine mix named after a former Dijon mayor. Late afternoons, feeling dry after various museum visits, we typically drink a glass or two of this traditional brew by the fountains in the sunny Place de la Liberation.
For supper one night we share a bottle of Champagne Bruther Brut NV. Fresh and delicious, it’s great value at around $18.
Dessert is a block of Naturgie Chocolat Noir Organic 99%. Once past the event horizon of this cosmic chocolate black hole, you are sucked right in; there is no escape.
Beaune
Next on the agenda is a day in Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy, a twenty minute train ride from Dijon.
There we check out the Musee du Vin, which contains an excellent display of artefacts relating to the history of wine in the region. Then we stroll through the now patient-free wards of the Hotel Dieu, aka the renowned Hospices de Beaune, site of the famous annual wine auction.
With lunch we drink a bottle of Andre Delorme Brut NV, Cremant de Bourgogne. Sparkling “Burgundy” styles in Australia are mostly red with a slight sweetness; this Blanc de Noirs example is white, dry, and refreshing.
Gevrey Chambertin
Next day we visit the Cote de Nuits village of Gevrey Chambertin. Leaving Dijon, the bus sign for the Route des Grands Crus reads like labels on the top shelf of your fine wine store: Gevrey Chambertin, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanee, Nuits-St-Georges, etc.
After wandering around the quiet and ancient village we finally find the establishment of Domaine Pierre Naigeon, where it’s time for a glass or two of pinot noir with winemaker Pierre Naigeon himself.
Pierre, fifth generation winemaker for the family firm, makes 36 different wines from some 11 hectares of unirrigated vineyards – a total production of around 40,000 bottles per year. He also makes wine in Australia’s Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula and Barossa Valley.
Terroirism.
I ask him why Burgundian reds are so different from Australian Pinot Noir. “Climate and soil!” he answers decisively, “It’s very cold here for most of the year and the vines grow on rocky limestone soil. This combination creates a natural acidity that you don’t have in Australian wine.”
He guides us to a chilly underground cellar and proceeds to demonstrate the importance of terroir, offering 18 barrique samples from different appellations of the 2010 vintage.
Given that the wines are vinified in the same way and come from the same varietal, in a comparatively small region, I expect them to present a sameness of style and taste. But I’m pleasantly surprised, not only by their evident finesse but also by each wine’s distinct individuality.
Like many Australian wine drinkers I tend to scoff a little at the notion of terroir but Pierre convinces me that, in Burgundy at least, terroir rules.
A few barrel highlights
Village Appellation: Gevrey Chambertin Vosne Romanée Vieille Vigne. Gloriously rich nose, complex, mouth-filling strawberries and spice.
Gevrey Chambertin En Vosne. This 80 year old vineyard presents a wine with a powerful, voluminous nose, leading to a long, finely balanced palate.
Premier Cru Appellation: Gevrey Chambertin Les Fontenys. This one, from 100 year old vines, has an intense bouquet of red berries while the palate shows concentrated berry fruit over subtle grape tannins.
The Gevrey Chambertin Les Perrieres is a nicely balanced style with loads of strawberry and cherry fruit and a hint of mocha at the finish.
Grand Cru Appellation: Mazy Chambertin. A solid, substantial style with hints of dark cherry and undertones of citrus and minerality at the finish.
Charmes Chambertin. Concentrated berries on the nose have an almost smoky edge. The palate is youthfully fruity yet at the same time savoury, with a distinctly firm finish. One to cellar for 20 years and more.
Following this sensational session Pierre can’t recommend anywhere locally to eat, so we head back to Dijon.
Note. The first literary reference to Burgundian wines dates from the fourth century AD, but grapes have been grown in the region since long before.
Recommended dining
On another Dijon evening we dine at Restaurant Le Verdi, Place Emile Zola. We share a Salade Chevre Chaud – squares of grilled chevre topped with pine nuts, set on crusty bread over a dressed green salad. Also, a perfectly al dente tortellini filled with ricotta and fresh asparagus sitting on a bed of creamy sauce dotted with petit pois. All washed down with a 500 ml pichet of Pays du Gard Rouge.
Southward bound
After nine days swanning around the cafes and sights of Dijon we pack the bags and toddle down to the railway station, bound for Avignon.
Notes
The flight. Emirates Airlines from Brisbane to Dubai. Glum looking cabin staff serve food that is plain but adequate. No one is offered seconds on the wine.
French customs. Paris, Charles de Gaulle Airport. From passport control to the street takes only 15 minutes. Australian Customs and Immigration please note.
Awarded Two Michelin Retreads. If the footpaths of Paris rate three Michelin Retreads for dog crappy footpaths, Dijon’s walkways, which are much cleaner, rate only two. However, there is a still a lot of shoe scraping for the short-sighted and for those looking at the stars rather than the gutter.
Food Observations Nowadays in France you can’t help but notice a significant amount of “biologique” (organic) food and wine in the shops. Organic wine apparently accounts for 10% of the French market, with consumption growing rapidly.
On previous trips to France the cuisine was straight down the line Francaise. In recent years there has been an explosion of pizzerias, kebab shops, ethnic restaurants – Chinese, Indian, Vietnamese, Moroccan, Japanese, Lebanese. And with it the inevitable run of McDonalds etc.
French chefs, who cook vegetables beautifully, still see vegetarian diners as abominations and the few menus that include a vegetarian selection assume that vegetarians eat fish.
Wherever we travel morbid obesity is never evident.
Next issue: Avignon, Aix en Provence, Marseille.
Star drinking
Bardinet Rhum Negrita - $30
A French blend of dark rum from the islands of Martinique, Guadeloupe and Réunion. Light tea hues. Aromatic nose, molasses predominant. A smooth, medium-weighted style; not as medicinal as some dark rums. Well suited to mixin’ rather than sippin’ straight.
d’Arenberg The Noble Botrytotinia F*ckeliana 2010 - $20 -
Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale, South Australia; Semillon / sauvignon blanc blend; 8% alcohol. Sounds more like something itchy you’d go to the clinic for than a sweet white wine. Bright gold. Nose of passionfruit and zest of Seville oranges. Palate is smooth and viscous, laden with flavours of marmalade and rich apricot sauce. At first it tastes indulgently sweet but any hint of cloying is offset by upfront citric acidity. (Re net censors - insert *U above.)
Delatite Dead Man’s Hill Gewurtztraminer 2010 - $25 -
Bright, light and pale to the eye. Limes and faint musk and Turkish Delight in the bouquet. Smooth in texture, mouth filling with apple pie and rose water and mild acidity to finish.
Leasingham Bin 7 Clare Valley Riesling 2010- $23 -
Light straw. Dried pears, Granny Smith apples and lemon zest on the nose. Lemony, sherbert-like flavours dominate the palate, balancing nicely with a citric tang at the finish.
Mud House Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 - $29 -
Almost water pale. Pungent tomato bush, black currant leaf and lychee nose. Light and bright in the mouth with more leafiness, grassiness and grapefruit notes. Medium acidity to finish.
Lindeman’s Bin 0905 Padthaway Nyrang Shiraz 2009 - $12.90 -
Dark crimson, slight purple on the edge. Inviting ripe blackberry conserve on the nose. A dry and medium-weighted palate displays wild berries underpinned by a hint of black olives and savoury smokiness. Finishes firm. Excellent value.
Andrew Garrett Sparkling Shiraz NV – seen for $11 to $14 -
Purplish foam when poured. Ripe plums and dark cherries on the nose. A medium weighted, off-dry sparkler with flavours suggesting Cherry Ripe and Cassis.
Tarrawarra Estate K-Block Merlot 2009 - $35 -
Yarra Valley, Victoria. Mid ruby. The nose shows subdued, musky mulberry fruit and tight French oak. In the mouth, rich berry essences and a shade of mint combine with silky tannins and subtle use of barrel fermentation to present an integrated whole.
Shaw and Smith Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2009- $40 -
Deep red with faint violet hues. Summer pudding nose with a hint of toasted oak. Dry, full and fruity in the mouth with somewhat assertive tannins that will soften nicely with a little bottle age. One to cellar for five years or so or to serve now with substantial main courses.
Fox Creek JSM 2008 - $22.50 -
McLaren Vale, South Australia. A blend of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Dark red to black. Generous plumminess, dark cherries and a hint of dusty oak on the nose. Warm and generous in the mouth where softish tannins support successive layers of ripe berries. Finish is long and moreish.
Ratings
- outstanding
- classy
- first-rate
- good stuff
- commercial
Second pressings
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About E-vine
E-vine first appeared in 2001 and is edited and published and written every now and then (mostly then) by wine educator and freelance wine and food writer, Martin Field. You are receiving E-vine because you requested it or because you sent unsolicited email or due to sheer good luck. Infrequent typos in the text are deliberate and are designed to foil net censors.