New: Follow Martin on Twitter
Quote
“What wondrous life is this I lead! Ripe apples drop about my head; The luscious clusters of the vine Upon my mouth do crush their wine.” Andrew Marvell. The Garden.
Travels in France, Part II
Sous le pont d’Avignon
The train from Dijon to Avignon takes us through vineyard country. Signs for M.Chapoutier adorn the hillsides. As you enjoy the scenic vignettes, you pass an ominous brooding nuclear reactor, no doubt waiting for the Rhone to flood and irradiate the already powerful reds.
A first impression of Avignon is that it is noticeably more touristy than Dijon and more English language friendly. For example, unlike Dijon, many of the restaurant menus here feature English translations.
Half a bridge too far
A must-see here is the Pont d’Avignon, originating from the 12th century and the basis of the famous song. It’s actually less than half a bridge as only four of the original 22 arches remain, so it stops disappointingly half way across the river. They have had many centuries to fix this but so far no action.
And I have it on good authority that the song we learned in execrable French at school is wrong – they didn’t dance “sur la pont”, they actually danced under it, that is, “sous le pont”, in a long gone café. Should I be called upon to sing this song in future it is the correct “sous” version I shall offer.
We have a good look round at the Palais des Papes in the heart of the city. A bunch of popes who battled with Rome for control of the Catholic empire lived here and ruled in the 14th century.
The palace kitchen area has a brilliant pizza oven, though I doubt the popes ever saw it.
However, the endless chapels and well-preserved examples of papal power and domesticity wear us out so we are happy to find near the exit a tasting room, where for a few dollars we refresh ourselves with some of the local reds.
Near the Papal Palace, we enjoy a casual lunch atCreperie du Cloitre. Scrumptious folded rectangles of crepes ooze with cheese, cream, spinach and a fried egg. They go down well with a bottle of Val de Rance Cidre Bouché. A silky smooth unpasteurised dry cider from Breton.
Modern Masters
Hidden a few blocks away from the Papal Palace is theMusee Agladon – where we stroll around a small collection of gems by Picasso, Modigliani, Cezanne and Bonnard, not to mention classic pieces of 7th century Chinese terra cotta.
Security seems lax and in contrast to most other museums, we are able to get up quite close and photographical to the priceless masterpieces.
Later, with supper, we try a shiraz from the local supermarket. It is the Domaine des Remizieres, Cuvee Christophe 2009, appellation Crozes Hermitage, (14% alcohol, about $18). The shiraz-based red is a deep purple in colour, rich, soft and satisfying in the mouth.
Aqueduct with Quacking frogs
Towards the end of our Avignon stay, we hire a tour guide and visit the Pont du Gard, a Roman aqueduct some 2000 years old.
As we rest on the bank of the tranquil river below the aqueduct, we hear loud quacking and look around for ducks. The racket is in fact coming from large frogs, and I reflect that the Roman Legionaries who built the place probably sat on the same spot 20 centuries ago, listening to the same spooky sound. And possibly caught a few for dinner.
Chateauneuf du Pape
The same morning we head off to Chateauneuf du Pape, a pretty hill top village set among hectares of Côtes du Rhône vineyards. On top of the main hill and sorely in need of a lick of paint are the derelict ruins of the “Pope’s new house”. Down the hill in the village, we visit a retailer for a little tasting.
Of the wines we taste, I quite like those from Chateau de la Gardine. First up is the 2005 vintage old vines white - AOC Chateauneuf du Pape – consisting mainly of roussanne. This presents fresh and perfumey, with a faint edge of liquorice allsorts on the palate.
Their 2006 red from the same appellation, made predominantly of grenache, is a warmly alcoholic style. Deep purple to black in colour, smooth in the mouth with sweetish fruit and a long finish.
A bus to Aix en Provence
But alas, after Chateauneuf du Pape, it’s farewell to fair Avignon, and time to take a bus to our next stop, Aix en Provence. More about Aix and Marseille in the next issue.
Noshtalgia
Creamy duet for jackhammers
Way, way back, I worked on the soi-disant Kew Navvy Gang (KNG), for the now extinct PMG. The gang was a wild bunch of long-haired hippies, musos and dope freaks; labouring was the only work available then for long-haired guys in a very conservative Melbourne.
Mick (Elliott) the guitarist and I (both smartly outfitted in blue PMG bib and brace overalls) were using a couple of jackhammers to rip up the footpath in Kew Junction for the laying of telephone cables. Nearby, smartly dressed office workers read their morning papers as they waited for the eight o’clock tram to the city.
“Mick,” I said, during a quiet interlude. “Why don’t we play a duet?” (We were sort of avant-garde labourers.)
At that time, Mick was in a band with another KNG member, Ian Ferguson. They played a fewCream numbers, so, without rehearsal, we launched into a shaky version of Spoonful: “Drr-drr, drr-drr, drr-drrrr, drr...”
When we’d finished, a be-suited chap looked up from hisSun News-Pictorial and asked, “Do you know Sunshine of your Love?”
A one and a two and a three, a pull on the hammers’ triggers and off we went, “Drr, drr-drr, drr-drr, drr-drr, drr-drr-drrrr-drr...”
After this modest yet decibel-laden performance, there was scattered applause from the bemused tram queue. Sadly, before anyone could yell “Encore!” or “Bravo!” or call for the lead jackhammerist* to play a solo, the eight o’clock tram rolled up and we went back to work. (*Mick on lead, I doubled on bass and rhythm.)
At morning tea (coffee scrolls, vanilla slices, takeaway coffee, unfiltered Camels) we planned a farewell performance. (It never happened.)
At midday, worn out by the impromptu concert and digging concrete and asphalt all morning, we adjourned for a counter lunch at theClifton pub nearby. I had a T-bone steak with a fried egg on top, a pile of tomato sauce anointed chips and six pots of beer. I think Mick had the parmigiana but he also downed six pots.
Then it was back to a sunny afternoon in the trenches.
Crazy restaurant in Noosa
Ipazzi Ristorante is a tiny new eatery in Noosa Junction, a couple of minutes over Noosa Hill from the Hastings Street resort strip. It is fast gaining a reputation as the best Italian restaurant in town.
Ruby runs everything front of house and Fabio, her husband, is chef. Ipazzi, Ruby explains, means something like “We’re crazy!”
The narrow room features well-separated small tables and is all red and white checked tablecloths with candles burning in old bottles. It looks like a full house would max out at 25 covers.
Fabio, I learn, prepares house-made pasta each afternoon and the choices on our menu are fettuccine, spaghetti and maltagliati.
We order the Margherita Pizza ($22), the Fettuccine Siciliana ($24), followed by Tiramisu ($9.50).
White domes of creamy buffalo mozzarella top the Margarita; they in turn are dotted with torn basil leaves, and both decorate a layer of sweet and tart tomato sauce. The base is thin, crusty and crunchy, its edges plump and slightly charred.
The fettuccine Siciliana is a decent-sized bowl of nicely chewy pasta. Siciliana in this case refers to an EVOO-enhanced sauce of a garlicky sofrito that features fine slices of fried eggplant, salty ricotta, fresh basil and tomato, all topped with small shards of parmesan.
Lucy tells me the Tiramisu is luscious and is fortified with what seems like a double shot of espresso.
A bottle of Shaw and Smith M3 2009 Chardonnay has notes of pear and cashew and an appealing substructure of French oak. A substantial white, it pairs nicely with our tomato-influenced mains.
Ipazzi, 28 Sunshine Beach Road, Noosa Junction, Queensland. BYO – corkage $3 per diner. Dinner Tuesday to Saturday. Phone (07) 5412 2841.
Tapas Japonesque
Dinner time at another newish place in sleepy old Noosa Junction. This one is Jardin Japonesque, run by chef / proprietor Kisa Juri Kobayashi – ex-Noosa’s renowned Wasabi Restaurant.
First impressions were the unobtrusive minimalist white decor and exquisite, antiquey looking serving bowls.
“Otsumami” appeared at the top of the menu, translated in brackets as “Appetisers / Tapas”.
And so we chose a few tapas-sized serves. First up was Soy-burned Roasted Organic Garlic. Four plump juicy cloves, caramelised to sweetness and with a mild, roast garlic savour.
Next wasSilverbeet Tsukudani, finely chopped stems sautéed with sweet soy sauce and Japanese black pepper – the latter giving the sauce a distinct bite.
There followed organic Zucchini Tempura, four modest slices in a delicate whitish crisp batter along with a mild dipping sauce.
An agreeable Agedashi Tofu served as an interlude and we finished with Vegetarian Futomaki Sushi Rolls.
Seated on a layer of wasabi mayo, these were a complex mix of taste and texture centred with avocado, cream cheese, and finely grated pickled beetroot. On the side was a small saucer of house-made, shaved pickled ginger.
This last was white in colour, delicious, and quite unlike the store bought artificially tinted stuff one often encounters in Japanese restaurants.
The wine we took was the De Bortoli Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2010 and it suited the multiplicity of dishes admirably.
Service was timely and friendly and we enjoyed it all – perhaps the highlight was the silverbeet dish.
Highly recommended.
Cost for two was $54 including corkage.
Jardin Japonesque. 3 Arcadia St. Noosa Junction, Queensland 4567, Australia. Phone (07) 5448 0724. BYO. Lunch Tuesday to Friday; Dinner Tuesday to Sunday.
Gourmet Farmer
I’m enjoying previews of the latest SBS Gourmet Farmer series; in which food critic turned farmer Matthew Evans is an ever amiable host, with his goofy grin and somewhat naive approach to making a living on the land.
In a recent episode, Chinese New Year, Matthew belatedly realises that if outgoing exceed incomings he won’t make any money. He ripens pigs with cherries, farms worms, indulges in vermicular gastronomy and helps prepare a Serbian Chinese New Year feast. Great fun.
Top shelf drinking
Holey Dollar Premium Rum – around $40
Fiji. Pot still, three years small oak maturation, 40% alcohol. Light sherry hues. Nose of light molasses leavened with a hint of vanilla and maybe a touch of lemon peel. Smooth sweet palate with edges of caramel, vanilla and aged oak. A good sipper on the rocks and a top mixer.
Coopers Extra Strong Vintage Ale 2011 - $5 (375 ml) - AAA
Top fermented, bottle conditioned ale. Foamy with light toffee hues. Fruity notes on the nose are moderated by hop aromatics. Creamy mouth feel exhibits delicious maltiness, a suggestion of mocha and balancing hoppy bitterness at the finish.
Bress Brut Cider - $20 (750ml) - AA
Harcourt, Victoria. 80% cider apples, 20% pears, six months on lees. Pale gold, light bead. Juicy green apple peel nose and a hint of pear juice. Smooth and creamy on the palate with a tad of brioche-like yeastiness. Goes down very easily with a just off-dry finish.
Yering Station Cold Pressed Pinot Gris 2010 (374 ml) - $33 - AAA
Yarra Valley, Victoria. Cold Pressed means grapes were frozen and cold pressed at -18C. Light straw. Sweet nose of ripe apricots, pears and Seville marmalade. Palate is light and elegant with sweet fruitiness balanced by lemon zest acidity. Excellent dessert wine. NB I read the back labelafter tasting this wine and was surprised to find similar comments.
Reillys Riesling 2010 – $18 – AA+
Watervale, Clare Valley, South Australia. Near water pale, light green hue. Fresh sherbert and lime blossom nose. Dry, full, lip smacking, lemon / lime juiciness. Beautifully integrated acidity at the finish.
Thistle Hill Preservative Free Chardonnay 2011 - $22 – AA
Mudgee, New South Wales. No sulphur dioxide added. Very pale in the glass. Nose of white peaches with a hint of lemon zest. Soft rich palate shows dried pears with a hint of tropical fruits.
De Bortoli Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2010 – Seen for $24 – AA+
Light gold. Perfumey nose of apricot conserve and lightly toasted oak. Generous fruit on the palate is reminiscent of new season stone fruits, while the oak is nicely expressive rather than assertive. Try with a creamy pasta main course.
Houghton Stripe Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2010 - $15 – A+
Western Australia. Crimson in colour. Fruity nose, reminiscent of maraschino cherries. Medium-weighted in the mouth with more of the cherry fruit showing and light tannic astringency. Easy drinking with a pleasing dry finish. Good with main course food.
AC/DCHighway to Hell Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 - $16 and more - AA
Medium ruby, edge of purple. Dusty, wine gum nose. Dry and medium-bodied showing aspects of blackcurrants and blueberries over fairly assertive tannins. Try with well-seasoned main course tucker.
Mount Langi Ghiran Billi Billi Shiraz 2008 - $18 – AA
Dark crimson hues. Plums and maybe a hint of chocolate on the nose. Solid red of velvety texture shows plenty of ripe summer berry fruit along with sweet vanillin oak.
Maximus Cadenzia 2009 - $25 – AAA
Mc Laren Vale, South Australia. Grenache 50%, Shiraz 35%, Mourvedre 15%. Dark ruby. Inviting nose of forest fruits and oaky sweet vanilla. Silky texture, buckets of ripe berries in the mouth and a long delicious finish. Good value for money. Hand me another bottle.
Ratings
AAA+ - extraordinary
AAA - outstanding
AA+ - classy
AA - first-rate
A+ - good stuff
A - commercial
About E-vine
E-vine first appeared in 2001 and is edited and published and written every now and then (mostly then) by wine educator and freelance wine and food writer, Martin Field. You are receiving E-vine because you requested it or because you sent unsolicited email or due to sheer good luck. Infrequent typos in the text are deliberate and are designed to foil net censors.
Permission to quote smallish bits of E-vine is freely given if the source is acknowledged – please let me know if you do so. Unless otherwise stated prices are in Australian dollars. You are encouraged to forward E-vine to colleagues and friends. All links are active at time of publication. E-vine does not necessarily agree with and is not responsible for the content of linked pages – visit them at your peril! See comments at Twitter and a Loade of Really Olde Stuffe here andthere. Copyright © Martin Field 2011.Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia.