Quotes
Wine, one sip of this will bathe the drooping spirits in delight beyond the bliss of dreams. Be wise and taste. John Milton.
Drinkin' Wine Spo-Dee-O-Dee. "Sticks" McGhee.
Travels in France, Part III
Onwards to Aix en Provence
Waiting for the bus to Aix en Provence on a gloomy platform. In the middle of the day, it is a vast dark space like a set in search of a horror movie. The waiting room looks slummy, is graffitied and smells like a pissoir. Spooky.
First stop in Aix is for a refreshing drink at a sidewalk bar. Among the thronging crowds in the Cours Mirabeau, we sip a milky, pungent pastis.
Cocktails with Cézanne
That evening, as we take a stroll past the Musee Granet, a departing guest hands us his invitation to cocktails for the opening of the Cézanne exhibition two days later. (Collection Planque)
As if we own the place, we walk in among the dignitaries and culturati, me in my cocktail outfit of Dunlop Volleys and frayed Nepalese cut off shorts. Luckily, we have missed the speeches and immediately join the guests tucking in to huge plates of food and generous glasses of red.
Lucy asks what we should say if one of the many security people ask who we are. “I’ll tell them, ‘I’m the cultural attaché from the Orstrylian Ministry of the Yartz!’” I reply.
A maybe see
Paul Cézanne’s Studio is a good walk out of town and visitors can wander around the room where he created his masterpieces.
Preserved pretty much as he left it when he died in 1906, the studio is a big tall space with north-facing ceiling to floor windows. Bits of Cézanne bric-a-brac adorn the walls and some of the items are recognisable from his paintings – of which there are none present.
Worth seeing, but not worth going to see, to paraphrase Sam Johnson.
Recommended dining
Restaurant La Medina de Fes, 5 rue Campra, Aix en Provence. This pleasant, cheap and unpretentious Moroccan restaurant is just off the main drag. They serve us delicious couscous and tagine and a stand out marinated artichoke/orange salad. A small bottle of Gris de Gris accompanies the meal - fruity but very dry, from Meknes in Morocco.
Dinner in the apartment
Provencal omelette de Martin. Oeufs, bright yellowy girolles, young purple garlic, EVOO, avec mesclun et vinaigrette. The wine, bought at the local market, is substantial in body, fruity, and slightly petillant. Domaine Vouniere, NV organic merlot, Vin de Pays du Var, €4.50.
Marseille
Then it’s another relatively short bus ride to Marseille, the second largest city in France.
Our apartment, only a stroll from the Vieux Port, is on the sixth floor. The decor is modern with smart furnishings and looks out over the city roofline. Each morning we watch as a large seagull regurgitates fish for her obese chick nesting just outside the window.
(The apartment is in fact the best accommodation we had on the trip. See details here.)
Nearby is the main commercial thoroughfare, Rue Canebiere, popularly known by English speakers as ‘Can o’ Beer’. The name is derived from long-disappeared hemp farms that provided cordage for sailing ships in the olden days.
The Vieux Port area is a sunny and pleasant maritime environment with thousands of pleasure craft moored; the waterside surrounded by lively fish markets and souvenir stalls. Nearby streets and plazas are packed with bars and restaurants.
Walk a few blocks away from the quay however, and you might fantasize that you are in another country: Morocco? Algeria? Shops in the alleyways sell myriad African and Middle Eastern goods. Exotic fabrics and clothes hang from awnings and as you walk past “oriental” patisseries you savour the fragrance of restaurant kitchens that are definitely not Cuisine Francaise.
Hang on to your valuables
People in both Australia and in France warned us to “take care” in Marseille; it made us a little apprehensive at first.
The city certainly has a seamy side. Beggars and drunks are inevitably part of the street scene, even more so in the laneways. Cosmetically enhanced women hang out here and there, waiting no doubt to act as eager guides for the inquisitive tourist. In the background, day and night, is a cacophony of wailing sirens.
After day two, having witnessed a couple of bag snatches, we tuck passports and money under our shirts and the digital camera in my pocket and leave everything else in the apartment. This simple move inspires confidence and so we wander pretty much wherever we like. Always, as it were, with eyes open,
Recommended sightseeing
Les Calanques – Calanques is the local term for the deep bays or coves that dot the arid rocky coast south of Marseille. From Vieux Port, we take a two and a half hour boat trip to explore a few of these. Among the sights are old pillboxes, apparently dating from World War Two, tiny fishing villages, and maniacal rock climbers scaling the overhanging cliffs.
Wine
A cheapy from the local supermarket was a Les Figuiers AOC Bandol (low-yielding vines) 2005 - a bargain at €6. Blended from fifty percent mourvedre, with the balance grenache. A lighter bodied red with, given its age, forward tannins and acid. Plentiful cherries and blackberries showed in the mouth. Definitely a main course red. Not the quality of wine you willever find at this price in Australia.
Leaving
Twenty-one days in France, including four short days in sunny Marseille and suddenly it’s time to head back to Noosa.
Highlights of the trip? Monuments, museums, galleries, landscapes, obviously. But standouts were the simple things: the people, the wine, the bread, the cheese.
Disclosure: All fares, meals and accommodation paid for by the self-funded E-vine travel account.
How we drank in the ‘70s
Back in the 1970s, my good friends Geoff and Dot Parker were great diners and entertainers and I dined frequently with them, at home and in many Melbourne restaurants.
Geoff was (and is) an enthusiastic wine collector and, unusually for the times, didn’t only drink fine wine but also kept extensive notes on those he tasted and the various meals they accompanied.
Earlier this year he compiled a selection of these notes (14 November 1974 to 19 July 1977) and was kind enough to send me a copy. I have since told him that he could have had another career as a wine writer.
This excerpt, one of many, is from a meal we shared at Restaurant Chez Bebert on Tuesday 13 January 1976.
With garlic scallops, the McWilliams Mount Pleasant Anne Riesling, 1966. Rich honey-gold colour. The aroma was heavy and musty…good regional character with considerable acidity providing a pleasant balanced feel. Past its peak, but will continue to build great character.
And, Leo Buring Reserve Bin DWC II Barossa Valley Rhine Riesling, 1973. Exceptional quality dry white…delicate varietal expression, balanced, fresh and soft.
With steak, the Leo Buring Claret DR 163, 1964. Soft, broad, slightly earthy nose redolent of Hunter reds. Medium bodied satisfying palate sitting between the lush and the austere. Well balanced with a sharp tannic lift to the finish. Very good wine.
And, the Seppelt Cabernet Sauvignon TTI 47, 1971, Barossa Valley. This won the 1972 Jimmy Watson Trophy for best 1971 dry red. Big cabernet with a great deal of fruit flavour and rather prominent oak on the finish. A low tannin very good, lush wine, but maybe a little soft and fat.
Riedel
Mark Baulderstone, Riedel’s local head honcho, was at Gibson’s in Noosa recently, taking a bunch of tasters through the Riedel Vinum range.
The glasses were the Bordeaux, Burgundy, Sauvignon Blanc and Montrachet models. For comparison, wines were also tasted in stock standard ISO glasses.
Mark made a strong case that the nose of a wine is the main factor in dictating its taste. He then demonstrated quite convincingly how different Riedel shapes enhanced their particular varietal counterparts. With a bit of deft glass-swapping he also showed how an unattuned shape could in fact diminish enjoyment.
The ISO glasses fared quite badly in all cases.
On the evening the standout matching was a Stoniers Reserve 2008 Pinot Noir in the Burgundy stem.
Thinks, I’d like to see a blind tasting exercise to really put the varietal glasses through their paces.
Thinks again, glassware enhancement of nose and taste must always be based on the assumption that the varietal tasted is true to type.
Book review
James Halliday’s 1001 Wines under $20
The most common question wine writers get is what’s good under $15 or $20 dollars? Here Halliday provides the answers. He lists wines by variety i.e. riesling, semillon etc, and then alphabetically by company. Each wine is given a point score out of 100 and a short description and tasting note. This one is no doubt going to help fill many a Christmas stocking.
$25 Paperback, published by Hardie Grant.
Tucker
Inside out salad dressing
This is a little treat for guests - where whole tomatoes are vinaigretted from the inside out.
You will need a hollow plastic brining needle – you can get these from Two Dollar shops for a few bucks. A bowl of cherry tomatoes – stalks removed. A well-strained vinaigrette – I use a tea strainer. See a good vinaigrette recipe here.
Now, suck some vinaigrette into the briner. Insert the hollow needle into the stem part of each tomato and press the plunger gently so that a few millilitres of dressing seep among the tomato seeds.
Chill the tomatoes and serve with entrées or accompanying a salad.
Note: this technique is good for injecting liqueurs into fresh fruits.
One man’s Cap Cay is another’s Ikan Bilis
Bob from Melbourne doesn’t hold back on his recent trip to Bali, E-vine’s most-visited holiday destination.
Martin, Thought you would be interested in my impressions of Bali – maybe I am getting too old.
In general, a heap of boozed Aussie 20-30 year old blokes – mixed with some other nationalities, all wearing Bintang singlets - all on an end of season footy trip, but not being the end of season if you get my drift.
Food in some places was excellent – in others just banal tourist crap. The Balinese are very pleasant and gentle. Our resort was first class, but otherwise the place was much different to say Thailand or Malaysia – both those places are much friendlier.
Not that impressed with Ubud, but very impressed with the bike ride we had from the Volcano down to Ubud through small villages on dirt roads and tracks.
Kuta is just a hellhole – Seminyak is better, but not hassle free. Only found three types of shopping in the 500 stores of Seminyak – shops that sell some class gear – very few of these, shops that sell the same rubbish – a lot of these, and shops that sell absolute rubbish – very many of these.
Beach at dusk – spectacular sunsets, cold beer, but populated in the main with bogans.
Best thing about Bali – the plane home. Will I return? – only in a body bag.
Star drinking
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale $4.50 and more the stubbie. ˜˜˜
This is the best US beer I’ve tasted in a long time. A bottle-conditioned (yeast in bottle), full-strength beer (5.6% alcohol) from California. The brew is packed with flavour, slight malt, lovely fragrant hops and a long smooth satisfying palate. It’s up there with my favourite Australian beer, Coopers Sparkling Ale.
Taltarni Taché 2010 - RRP $26 - ˜˜˜
Taché – i.e. stained with red wine. A blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. Pale blush, busy small bead, foamy head. Nose reminds me of strawberries and brioche. Palate is full and fruity; the apparent fruit sweetness ably supported by an undercurrent of firm yet integrated acidity. Pleasing aperitif style yet with a structure to suit entrée accompaniment.
Lock & Key Sauvignon Blanc 2011 - $15 - ˜˜
Orange, New South Wales. Light in the glass, edge of green. Sauvignon style at the tropical rather than herbal end of the spectrum. Generous fruit salad nose. Soft and full in the, with hints of pineapple and lychee. Medium dry to finish.
Alta Adelaide Hills Pinot Grigio 2011 - $20 - ˜˜˜
Almost water pale. Limes and white blossoms permeate the bouquet. Clean, dry style with lovely citrus-oriented flavours and an edge of sherbert like tang to close.
Toolangi Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2009 - RRP $25 - ˜˜
Bright light straw hues. White peach and apricot on the nose, along with a touch of toasted French oak. More stone fruit in the mouth and dried apples, all nicely balanced with biscuity wood and just enough acid to carry to an off-dry finish.
Bouldevines Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009 - $32.50 - ˜˜˜
New Zealand. Medium crimson shades. Dark cherries and raspberries on a savoury-edged nose. Full-on style with soft tannins and a load of ripe, summer berries. The dry and firm finish counterbalances the fruity lusciousness.
EchelonPetit Verdot 2008 - $28 - ˜˜˜
Mid-ruby. Nose of blueberries and blood plums with light oaky vanilla. Solid berry characters on the palate combine with mildly assertive tannins and synthesise into a satisfyingly chewy mouthfeel.
Rutherglen Estates Durif 2007 - $40 - ˜˜˜˜
Dense to opaque ruby-red. Warm, almost porty nose. Lip-smacking, chewy tannins lead off in this robust and complex red. It’s a heady melange of plums, blackberries, pencil shavings, anise, mocha, leather, and alcohol. Not for the faint of heart. Serve with a substantial main course and plan for an after dinner nap.
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Shiraz 2010 - Up to $15 - ˜˜˜
Mid-red, purple hues. Blackberries and unassuming oak invite further nosing. Good fruit intensity in the mouth: if you can imagine a non-cloying sauce composed of 85% chocolate infused with blackberry syrup you might be there.
Ratings
˜˜˜˜˜ - outstanding
˜˜˜˜ - classy
˜˜˜ - first-rate
˜˜ - good stuff
˜ - commercial
About E-vine
E-vine first appeared in 2001 and is edited and published and written every now and then (mostly then) by wine educator and freelance wine and food writer, Martin Field. You are receiving E-vine because you requested it or because you sent unsolicited email or due to sheer good luck. Infrequent typos in the text are deliberate and are designed to foil net censors.
Permission to quote smallish bits of E-vine is freely given if the source is acknowledged – please let me know if you do so. Unless otherwise stated prices are in Australian dollars. You are encouraged to forward E-vine to colleagues and friends. All links are active at time of publication. E-vine does not necessarily agree with and is not responsible for the content of linked pages – visit them at your peril! See snippets from E-vine at The Wine Blog. And a Loade of Really Olde Stuffe here andthere.Twitter: @Fieldvine.Copyright © Martin Field 2011. Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia.