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THE CUISINE OF SRI LANKA

Travel writers like to call Sri Lanka the Teardrop Island because of its shape. Colonists, and traders, both of which for centuries, exploited this lush land’s exotic spices, influenced Sri Lanka’s cuisine. Now tourism is changing some of the dishes, by demanding milder curries, and forcing the introduction of western style foods.
The Portuguese, Dutch and English were all there and were forced to leave after a while, but all left, at least, some of their food legacy. The English were responsible for roast beef and roast chicken (they had nothing more exotic than these two pedestrian foods), the Dutch their cookies and lamprais (meat balls wrapped in banana leaf and baked was originally a Dutch recipe that changed over time), and Portuguese sweets that are still popular.
Sri Lankans, a nation of 19.4 million, prefer rice to any other carbohydrate, but tourists need not worry – all types of other western-style breads are available, including toast.
Chefs in this island country use highly spiced curries liberally for lunch and dinner recipes. Boiled rice served with curries (beef, pork, mutton, fish, crustaceans, and vegetables) make up the backbone of dinners and occasionally also for lunch.
Generally, Sri Lankan curried dishes are more potent than those of southern India, but for tourists hotel cooks opt for mild versions. Chillies, cardamom, cumin, coriander, and all types of spices including peppers flavour indigenous dishes.
In the 15th and 16th centuries traders came to Sri Lanka from everywhere to buy and export spices, and some decided to stay, marrying locals, and also introducing their favourite recipes.
A Sri Lankan breakfast without hoppers (appa) with egg, or other ingredients should be enjoyed at least once, but hopefully daily. They are delicious, and can be served with sweet or spicy fillings (red onions and spices).
You want yoghurt; here it is thick and flavourful and served with treacle to take the acid edge.
Coconut sambal (dried Maldives fish, lime juice, ground coconut and chillies) is served with fragrant boiled rice. Coconut milk mellows strong curries. 
In this sun-blessed country, vegetables taste intense and all vegetables and fruits in the market are fresh in the true sense of the word that they are being offered a few hours after harvest, or at most 24.
Sri Lankans prefer to manipulate rice with three fingers of their right hand and using cutlery represents a barrier between the food and true enjoyment. It is an art, and can be mastered after a few attempts.
The cuisine offers many desserts like sweet rice, flour cakes, but for my taste the tropical fruits like mangosteen, mangoes, bananas, pineapples, and rambutan taste better after a meal and aid digestion than any sweet invention.
When it comes to snacks (here called short eats) try egg rolls, patties and pastries and vada-dhal in specialized stores – an experience not to miss.
Frankly, I fail to understand the logic of tourists travel to Sri Lanka from Europe, Australia or North America, and insist on western-style meals when they can enjoy a fully satisfying repast of local indigenous food that is fresh, tastes fresh, and is less expensive to boot!
 

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT by Mark R. Vogel
 
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